I recently met up with an old school friend for lunch in Kirkby Lonsdale. His interest is in old vintage motor cycles and mine is gently strolling through history and natural history. Prior to going our separate ways at Devil’s Bridge, where the motor bikers assemble on Sundays, he gave me some old photographs of the area, which helped me to add an extra dimension to my walk.

How to get there: Kirkby Lonsdale is situated on the A65 road between Kendal and Settle. It is within six miles of the M6 motorway with an exit via junction 36. There is free parking and toilets at Devil’s Bridge.

Map: OS Explorer OL12

Grid reference: 610 790

Length of walk: three miles

Route

1 Before setting off at Devil’s Bridge I took time to look at two old photographs. One showed people skating on the River Lune below the bridge in 1893. The second showed a lorry which had crashed into the bridge on a foggy day in 1934. These days the bridge is closed to traffic.

The hump back bridge was not actually built by Old Nick but probably dates to the 13th Century and was built by the Cistercian Monks of Furness Abbey. On the opposite side of the bridge is a bacon butty caravan used by the bikers.

2 Do not cross the bridge but turn left to reach the riverbank. Follow the course of the Lune to reach an old mill. From this a track leads up into the town but ignore this. This is the time of the year to see the alder trees, which grace the river bank and where I found male catkins already preparing for next spring. Continue onwards.

3 An obvious left turn climbs up a steep set of stone steps and eventually leads to the churchyard. Turn right along an obvious track to reach Ruskin’s View, passing a castle-like Georgian Folly on the left. The meander of the Lune was described by John Ruskin (1819-1900) as “the best view in England and therefore in the world.” The landscape painter JMW Turner (1775-1851) captured the scene which seems to have changed very little since his paint dried! Return along the obvious path to the Church of St Mary the Virgin, parts of which date to 1093.

4 A narrow alleyway leads to the Sun Hotel in Market Street. In the old days people travelled for miles to worship and inns were built close by to cater both for the people and horses. From the Sun return to the church. Turn right and then left down a narrow flight of stone steps.

5 Descend to the old market square with its cross and a substantial set of fish stores. The monks of Furness Abbey owned most of the fishing rights along most of the west coast and also along the Lune. This area was also known as the Swine Market but it was once the main market centre of the town. Before this is another cobbled street which once served as the horse market. It is said that Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745 stood on the steps and tried in vain to rally support for the Stuart Rebellion.

6 Follow the road to reach the more modern market square and look out for a narrow street called Jingling Lane. This took its name from the bells carried by the packhorses when all trade came via the old route. From this point there is an obvious track back to Devil’s Bridge passing the pretty little cricket ground away to the left.

Then it was back to the Sun Inn for lunch. My lungs were full of fresh air, while my friend was content to enjoy the fumes of old motor bikes revving up!

NB: Restrictions on space mean that this article provides a general summary of the route. It is advisable for anyone who plans to follow the walk to take a copy of the relevant Ordnance Survey map.