9:40am Saturday 8th May 2010
By Ron Freethy
THOSE of us who love tradition are delighted that Appleby keeps the name of Westmorland in its proud title. The town always has a high profile at the time of the horse fair, but this must not mask the fact that this place is a joy to visit at any time of the year.
How to get there: Appleby-in-Westmorland is on the Settle to Carlisle Railway and from the station a steep road leads down to the town centre. By road, the town is reached along the A66 linking Brough to Penrith. Approaching from Kendal follow the A685 to Tebay and then take the B6260 through Orton.
There is parking in the town but most areas require a ‘disc’ which can be obtained from the information centre at Moot Hall.
1 From the Crown and Cushion pub explore the market cloisters and the parish church at St Lawrence. The church dates to Norman times but was badly damaged in 1388 by invading Scots.
In the mid-17th Century Lady Anne Clifford, who owned the castle, restored the church and both her and her mother are buried there.
Pass through the cloisters on to Boroughgate and walk straight ahead.
2 Approach the Moot Hall, which is used as an impressive tourist information centre. The word ‘moot’ means a meeting place and the present building dates to 1596. There were probably earlier buildings on the site dating to Anglo-Saxon times and the first market charter dates to 1174.
From Moot Hall follow Boroughgate, which climbs steeply towards the castle with old inns to the left and right.
3 Towards the summit look to the left and enter the tranquil yard, gardens and 13 dwellings, which make up the Lady Anne Clifford’s Alms Houses. These are still occupied by spinsters and widows who live rent free and are looked after by a ‘Mother’ and their spiritual needs are catered for in a splendid little chapel.
From the Alms Houses ascend to the High Cross, which is overlooked by the castle and not fully open to the public. This route traces the line of the walls of the fortress, which dates back to at least 1092. Follow the road around to the right and sweep left. On the right is Scattergate - once called Schitergate due to the stink of the long closed tanneries in the area.
4 Follow the steep track, and descend to the River Eden. Cross a footbridge, which replaced the Jubilee Bridge built in 1887 at the time of Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. Look to the right to see Bongate and its large weir. Ascend a steep track, passing a row of 17th Century cottages on the right.
5 Look left to see St Michael’s Church dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. It is still a listed building but is now a private residence. Continue the ascent to meet Bongate, which is on the line of the A66, then turn left.
6 Pass the Royal Oak, a former coaching inn, on the right and turn left back towards the town. You will walk past old cottages before reaching the police station and the old courts. These and the gaol are occasionally open to the public but there is also plenty to see on the outside. There are the old male and female prisons, plus another building which housed debtors. Here, there was once a treadmill, which provided power to raise water from the River Eden to the roof of the prison.
7 Turn sharp left over the bridge across the Eden. Look to the right to see the area of the river used by the horse traders at the time of the fair.
At the end of the bridge turn sharp right through a gate to reach an idyllic riverside path. Pass a cricket field on the left and a swimming pool, both of these are on the site of an old gasworks.
8 The meander of the river is a delight and there are playing fields where the Butts were situated and where archery was practised. Men from Westmorland were at the battle of Agincourt, fought against the French in 1415.
Do not cross the next bridge over the Eden, but bear left and return towards the town centre.
9 Continue over a crossroads and through a narrow alley to Moot Hall, turning left to the Crown and Cushion.
Length of walk: 3 miles.
Map reference: OS Explorer OL19. Town centre grid ref: 685204.
NB: Restrictions on space mean that this article provides a general summary of the route. It is advisable for anyone who plans to follow the walk to take a copy of the relevant Ordnance Survey map
© Copyright 2001-2012 Newsquest Media Group
http://www.thewestmorlandgazette.co.uk/trade_directory/