Around St Bees (From The Westmorland Gazette)

Around St Bees

8:40am Friday 16th December 2011

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For more than 50 years St Bees has been one of my favourite walks because it is so full of history plus wonderful coastal scenery. It was also the first place that I turned to study the natural history of seabirds. I still cherish a photograph taken in the 1950s of cliffs during the days of black and white photography. I still get a sense of nostalgia each time I look at old black and white prints. The 300-feet high cliffs, however, look a treat in the autumn as the sunlight strikes the red sandstone rocks. In the spring and summer the cliffs are full of seabirds including puffins, guillemots, gulls and other species. In the summer and autumn the area is a paradise for botanists.

St Bees is reached from the Whitehaven to Carlisle road and turning off on the B5345. In the village itself there is a very attractive pay and display car park.

Map: OS Explorer 303

Grid Ref: 960 120

Length: 5 miles

Warning: This walk should never be rushed and care must be taken when walking along any coastal route, even though areas near to the steep cliffs are fenced off.

Route

1 From the car park head towards the shore. Choose a clear day because there are often good views out to sea with the Isle of Man often being visible. Turn slightly right and follow a concrete path and then close to a caravan park fence.

2 Approach and cross a wooden footbridge over a stream flowing towards the beach. Then head uphill towards the top of the cliff. As the route descends, the views become spectacular.

3 Follow the cliff top path and at this point St Bees lighthouse can be seen in all its glory. The path at this stage is best described as undulating, and at this point there is a chance to get your breath back. Descend a series of steps leading to a gorge and then into Fleswick Bay. The route then ascends again and leads up to the headlands of the cliffs.

4 Follow the grass track close to a fence. Here there are splendid views and I always enjoy this walk twice each year - once in springtime for the birds and in the autumn for the views and a good blast of fresh air. By far the best view is reached via a stile which diverts the route for a few yards.

5 Return to the main track and continue to reach the lighthouse which is situated in a beautiful and yet accessible point. the lighthouse stands some 60 feet (18 metres) and was build in 1822. It has certainly stood the test of time and the ravages of the wind and weather. It was manned until 1987 but is now operated by computerised system.

6 Turn right away from the coast and pass through an obvious stile. Pass through a kissing gate to reach a road. Follow this road.

7 Follow this road for around a quarter mile. Look out for a sign pointing out the DEFRA Conservation Walk. When I first walked this route in the late 1940s footpaths were not well marked but these days things are much improved. The route follows a well marked footpath through a field.

8 The route remains obvious and passes through a number of fields. At one point, however, the route becomes less clear and it was here that I met Stephen Green who has researched the history of St Bees. St Bega founded a monastery here in 650 AD but it was later destroyed by Danish invaders. Bega had fled from Ireland to avoid a forced marriage and set up her nunnery at the point where she landed in England. In the 12th Century the Normans established a monastery on this holy site and the abbey church still stands even though Henry VIII destroyed the other buildings in 1538. St Bees parish church is now a fine example of Norman architecture at its best.

9 Bear left on an undulating and rough track to reach the gorge at Fleswick Bay.

10 The path descends gradually and bears right back onto the coastal path and here is another chance to enjoy spectacular views.

11 The obvious track now leads back to the starting point.

NB: Restrictions on space mean that this article provides a general summary of the route. It is advisable for anyone who plans to follow the walk to take a copy of the relevant Ordnance Survey map.