Glorious Ghent...

10:27am Friday 4th April 2008

Fancy a spring break with a spot of culture and a lot, lot more - including a bowl of mussels valued at £350,000?

OK, it's a big bowl, but not that big.

In fact, it is one of the more bizarre elements in treasure houses of art in the historic Belgian city of Ghent. The treasures range in theme from just such off-the-wall ideas in the Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art to more traditional works in the impressive Museum of Fine Arts.

The latter recently staged an extraordinary exhibition, British Vision, covering two centuries of British art from 1750 to 1950. Museums in Britain, Europe and the United States lent works to the city, which prides itself on its cultural elegance.

It's worth going to Ghent just for that - but there is so much more to do and see in this vibrant, exciting city, which the former French president Francois Mitterand once described as one of Europe's best kept secrets.

No secret now though, with increasing numbers of visitors appreciating its charms.

History is at its heart, a compact traffic-free area where you feast your eyes on ancient architecture - the landmark three towers (St Nicholas' Church, Belfry and St Bavo's Cathedral), the Castle of the Counts and many more impressive buildings.

You can tour on foot - nothing too strenuous unless you want to explore the Castle of the Counts. That can test the stamina, though the climbing is not as tortuous as some of the exhibits!

Among the many ways of getting about, there are horse-drawn carriages or you can take to the boats. The city is on the confluence of the Rivers Scheldt and Leie, and you get splendid views on guided boat tours.

There are guided walking tours too, and some are really tasty. A nibbling tour includes stops to sample local delicacies, such as pates, cheeses and, of course, chocolates. And, if you are feeling a bit more peckish, how about a dinner tour, with each course in a different restaurant? A great idea.

Another way to get around is by public transport, something else Ghent seems to have got off to a fine art.

There are buses, trolley buses and trams, wonderful trams that are a far cry from the rattling juggernauts of old. These are sleek, smooth-running machines operating in areas with limited access for private cars.

There are single trams, double trams and triple trams. Great fun, as well as practical. Just watch where you stand on the joins, however, or you'll find yourself moving in several different directions at once. The buses and trolley buses come in various articulated shapes and sizes too.

When you've had your fill of history, architecture and monuments, there's more, much more - elegant shops, cinemas, theatres, concerts and a huge range of sports facilities, from water sports to minigolf.

You can get details of all that's on offer and accommodation at the tourist office in the city centre, or go to www.visitgent.be (the Belgians spell Ghent without the h').

At night, Ghent lights up in a spectacular display, with a bustling nightlife to match. An abundance of clubs, pubs, cafes and restaurants beckons, the only difficulty being in choosing.

Having said that, I had no difficulty making a decision when I was pointed in the direction of The Glengarry, a city-centre pub that is famous for its vast selection of Scotch malt whisky. It's run by Bob Minnekeer, a Belgian who is an authority on malts and who is, incredibly, Pipe Major of the Flemish Caledonian Pipes & Drums. Quite a character and he wouldn't have too much difficulty persuading you to tarry a while.

If your taste is for the famous Belgian beers, again you are spoiled for choice, both in the range of ales and the large number of bustling bars.

Time to move on to a restaurant? There are culinary delights at every turn. One of the specialities among many is gentse waterzooi', a delicious creamy fish and vegetable stew. You'll be asking for more. And don't forget those traditional mussels and chips, the chips accompanied by mayonnaise, the Belgian equivalent of ketchup.

Many menus have English translation, but if not, just ask. The main language in this part of Belgium is Flemish, but almost everyone seems to speak English and communication is not a problem.

So much to see, do and enjoy, and I'm glad I got in on the secret'. You can get in on it too by contacting Tourism Flanders-Brussels at www.visitflanders.co.uk or by phoning 020-7307-7738. The brochure ordering line is 0800-9545245.

We went to Ghent by road, having crossed the Channel from Dover to Dunkerque by Norfolkline ferry. The company operates three new, purpose-built ships on the route, each vessel having a capacity for 200 cars, 780 passengers and up to 120 freight vehicles. The crossing time is about two hours and there are 24 sailings daily. The ships, smoke-free except for an outside deck area, do not carry coaches or foot passengers, and freight drivers and motorists have separate facilities on board, with a choice of restaurants. For more details or to book, contact Norfolkline on 0870-8701020 or www.norfolkline.com.

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