THERE are times when plants need to move, writes TOM ATTWOOD. Some can do this themselves to an extent, although ‘moving’ is embellishing the truth a little, more, spreading to a new site to take advantage of space, light or more favourable conditions. With the best will in the world an established woody shrub or small tree can’t hitch up its lower branches and move to the other side of the garden (thankfully). But if it’s of the size that can realistically be tackled we as gardeners can move some pretty established plants provided it’s done between now and March, in the least damaging way as possible. Every other week I use the words ‘there are always exceptions’ and in this instance, it wholeheartedly applies. It's not the easiest subject to generalise as shrubs and trees have root balls that differ from their neighbours. The main thing is to minimise the number of roots that you cut through and sacrifice in the process of moving the plant. As a good rule when you come to dig around the base of the plant the circumference of the circle you dig wants to match the outer edge of the branches. This is referred to in some cases as the ‘dripline’ i.e. where the raindrops run off from the outer most leaves onto the soil. Instead of making a single vertical cut in into the soil and through the roots, cut a ring-shaped trench the width of your spade. Once you’ve got the circular trench dug, make horizontal cuts going under the base of the plant, angle the spade downwards to minimise the roots you lose and to maximise those you can salvage. Once the root ball is loose, slide a plastic sheet beneath it (this will involve much juggling and mild cursing). When this is done you’ll be able to move the plant more easily, sliding it on the sheet and transplanting it to the freshly prepared site.

Next week: caring for transplanted trees and shrubs