Kendal’s Churches – Part 2

There have been many periods of building, re-building, extension and renovation. Some of the earliest portions of the church date to the 13th century. There are also portions of the building dating to the 15th century, the 16th century, and extensive re-building and re-modelling from the 1800's. The earliest piece of stone work to be found in the church is a 9th century piece of Anglian cross, which resides on a window sill to the East of the church.

Most days the church is open at some point, and the staff are usually enthusiastic about letting people wonder around and take photos.

The true size of the church is plain to see once you're inside. It stretches 140 feet towards the river, and is 103 feet wide. There are dozens of memorials and plaques on the wall of the church, many of which were created by George and Francis Webster and Miles Thompson of the Kendalian firm of architects. You could spend hours looking at these alone. Many of them are dedicated to some of the most powerful families in the old counties of Westmorland and Cumberland. Famous families such as the Parr's are represented here as well. The Parr chapel stands at the South East of the church, dating from the 14th century. The tomb is said to belong to the Grandfather of Katherine Parr, last wife of Henry VIII. The Bellingham chapel at the North East of the church, was built in the early 16th century, and includes 17th century brasses that replace the originals that were stolen. The Bellinghams were from Burneside and Levens, and had a town house in Kendal that is now occupied by Henry Roberts book shop. The Strickland chapel is situated at the East end of the church, and dates from the 13th century. The chapel is dedicated to the Stricklands of Sizergh castle a few miles outside of Kendal.

The church is sometimes referred to as the Church of Angels, an alias' derived from the multitude of carved wooden angels secreted around the church ceilings. There are four angels above the Parr chapel, and a further 14 angels above the 16th century North aisle. The Parr chapel angels are thought to be medieval, whilst the North aisle angels were positioned in 1868 when the church was being re-roofed.

High up on the North wall near the Bellingham chapel, a sword and helmet are suspended. These reputedly belonged to Robin the Devil (Sir Robert Phillipson of Belle Isle on Windermere) After his home was besieged by a local militiaman (Colonel Briggs of Kendal) Sir Robert Phillipson came to the church looking for his assailant. He rode into the church and in the process lost his helmet. The sword is probably not connected with this story, and its history seems to be unknown.

Just inside the porch, there's a large wooden plaque, which gives the names of all the serving vicars at the Parish churcha list that goes right back to 1190 and is unbroken to this day.

Outside, the interest continues, as the church is festooned with hundreds of gargoyles. Some are modern replacements for those that have succumbed to the weather, others are Victorian gothic grotesques, others are medieval and some are even older. There are a variety of creatures, monsters, angels, and strange beasts. The best are to be seen on the South wall of the church (between the church and the car park) and extend the whole length of the building. There are some huge (probably Victorian) gargoyles, but if you look closely, you'll see many much smaller (and stranger) gargoyles covering the eaves from front to back.

Now that we're outside the church again, we'll move onto the next site on our route.

Holy Trinity and St George: Walk along the South wall of the church, and turn left, walking towards Abbot Hall. Bear right and head out towards the river. Turn left, and walk along the riverside walk. This will eventually take you to the bottom of Lowther Street. Cross the road, and head out towards Frydays, the fish and chip shop. About 50 yards on your left, you'll see the Roman Catholic church of Holy Trinity and St George with its statue of St George slaying the dragon high up on the faade. The church was built between 1835 and 1837 from a design by Kendalian architect George Webster. It was built to replace a small Catholic chapel that was based in a house on a street a few hundred yards away. From the outside, the church exhibits many traits that we now associate with the Webster's flare for design. It has the three high arched windows positioned over the doorway, the tall pinnacles on the tower, and the tall arched windows down the North and South walls. Inside, the church is painted white with high undecorated ceilings. The altar is set in a tall recess at the North West end of the church, highly decorated with gold bosses, stained glass windows and the trappings of priestly goings on'!!!!

The church is sometimes open, although please check to make sure that there are no services on before you enter to look around. Considering it's on a busy thorough fare, inside the atmosphere is very tranquil. The church possesses a few gargoyles at the front of the building, although these aren't up to the standards set by the Parish church.

Time to move onto our next site. This time a small chapel set back off the streets.

The Unitarian Chapel: Exit the church and turn left onto Blackhall Road. Proceed until you come to the bottom of Finkle Street. Turn left, and walk up towards the toy shop. Turn right onto Branthwaite Brow, pass the Chocolate House, and just before you get to the George and Dragon pub, you will see some ornate black and gold gates on your right. If the gates are unlocked, proceed down the alley. The chapel sits at the end of the short walk, set back in a small garden.

At first glance, the chapel looks like a grand house in a private yarded garden. The plaque on the wall at the entrance to the yard is the first indication that this is one of Kendal's most important historical buildings, set in private grounds that incorporate a 280 year old burial ground. Built in 1720, the chapel housed the new Presbyterian congregation of Kendal and the surrounding areas. I haven't been inside the chapel, but the gardens and the burial ground are well worth exploring if the gate is open. The small area to the front of the chapel used to be a burial ground, but has since been opened up as a small garden. An 18th century carved tomb stone is mounted on the wall to the left of the chapel door. The alley to the right of the building leads to the burial ground at the rear. There are historical tomb stones mounted on the side of the chapel, and one of the most important stones of the site, is that of Caleb Rotherham. Dr Rotherham was the first minister at the new chapel in 1720, dying in 1752. Dr Rotherham was responsible for setting in motion his Academy' where he taught laymen divinity, science and mathematics. His son continued the academy upon his succession to his father's ministry. William Wordsworth was known to be a regular worshipper at the chapel.

In 1882, the chapel was restored to the tune of £1000, with the ceiling being altered, the installation of new heating equipment and re-flooring of the main chapel. These alterations are believed to represent the chapel that we see today. It was during this year, that the school room at the rear of the chapel was erected, expanding the small chapel even further. It's hard to believe that you're right in the middle of the town when you're stood in the gardens surrounding the chapel.

Time to move onto our next and last church.

St George: Exit the lane at the front of the chapel, and turn left, heading back down Branthwaite Brow. Turn left at the crossroads of Kent Street and Finkle Street. Head towards the crossing at the end of Finkle Street. Cross over and continue towards the river. You'll eventually come to Stramongate Bridge. Cross over and on your right, you'll see the church of St George. Immediately at the end of the bridge, turn right, and you're on Castle Street and at the front (North West) end of the church.

St George's is another Webster company creation, being built in 1841 to designs by George Webster. It replaced an earlier chapel at the head of the market square that burned down in 1838. The church was built to seat around 1060 worshipers and was funded with £4500 of subscriptions and grants from the Church Building Fund. The church was fitted with galleries on three sides, although only the rear gallery now survives. Externally, and especially at the North West end of the church, great changes have been made. Originally, the Websters erected two 100 foot towers topped with spires, giving the church an elegant gothic look. However, due to problems with the foundations, perhaps in connection with the close proximity of the river, these have since been removed, and the lower towers are what we see today. I have to admit, that from a personal point of view, this building is perhaps the most uninspiring church externally. It's not until you enter that you see some decoration of any note. Of note, is the ceiling to the North West of the altar, a beautiful turquoise colour, interspersed with a rose design at the head of lattices of cream coloured plaster. The bosses look almost like coats of arms. The high arch over the altar is jaw droppingly tall, framing the altar and the tall windows that light it. There are no stained glass windows in this church, giving it an almost industrial look. On each of the three occasions I've visited this church to take photos, it's been open. Again, make sure that there are no services on before entering if you plan to take photos.

The tour is over.but there are other churches and chapels to visit in Kendal and the surrounding areas.

The Quakers meeting house in Kendal is well worth a visit, for the Tapestry display, and the tea rooms. It's situated on New Road, a few yards from Holy Trinity and St George.

The twin chapels on Park Side road are also worth a brief visit. These George Webster designed chapels sit either side of the busy road heading out towards the Castle Green hotel.

The George Webster chapel in the small cemetery at the head of Castle Street is also worth a look.

Further a field, the church of St Peter at Heversham is well worth a visit. The church sits back off the A6 in the village of Heversham, and is full of medieval and earlier relics and history.

The church of St James in Burton in Kendal just off the A6070 is a Norman church worth a visit. Not usually open, except on days when services are held, it's still well worth a look.

Finally, the church of St Anne at Hugil\Ings just off the A591 deserves a visit. Again, it's full of medieval relics and history. This church is usually open and well worth a look inside.

The open door policy that so many churches in this area operate is most welcomed, and a great help when making a photographic record of these great buildings and their history. Please respect these building for what they are if you decide to pay them a visit: places of worship, historically important and very valuable to the fabric of the county of Cumbria.

Whilst researching this brief tour, John Hodgkinson's book The Greater Parish of Kendal 1553 - 2002 was of great help.

As was Kendal, Past and Present by John Marsh, and Discover Kendal by Arthur R Nicholls.

I'd also like to point you to www.visitcumbria.com which has an almost exhaustive list of churches in Cumbria.