Popular horseshoe routes tend to follow fell ridges and maximise the walker’s elevation. They provide rewarding challenges and opportunities to enjoy long distant views; but they’re not much fun if visibility is poor or if there’s a howling gale blowing. They also miss the boisterous becks, wonderful waterfalls and tranquil tarns in the valleys. This route samples the best of everything: shelter from the worst winds, two tarns, two gills, a beck, a burn, a river, waterfalls, some great views and a satisfying climb to a 1,760 feet (537 metre) summit. As well as the common name of river we see the names gill (from Old Norwegian for a stream in a narrow ravine), beck (Old Norwegian bekkr), burn (Old English word for a stream) and tarn (Old Norwegian tjorn).

Start from the large lay-by on the A591 north of Grasmere (GR NY338085).

Information

Distance: 8.5 miles, ascent: 2,200 feet

Time: 5 hours

Terrain: rough footpaths and some open moorland

Map: OS Explorer OL7

Route

1 Walk northwards along the pavement on the right hand side and cross the road with great care opposite the Travellers Rest to join the footpath through a gateway. Go along the side of the field and across the stepping stones to meet a tarmac lane. (These stepping stones can be avoided by continuing along the A591 past the Travellers Rest and turning left at the first road junction). Cross the bridge over the River Rothay, turn right then first left up the lane after Ghyll Foot. This is the start of Greenburn Bottom.

2 At the top of the woods where the track divides take the footpath to the left of the wall. The path goes up Greenburn for three quarters of a mile then crosses to the left (west) side of the valley. After the walled track ends, the path becomes less clear as it goes through bracken and marsh. Greenburn valley is a good example of a U-shaped glaciated valley. When the ice melted 10,000 years ago there would have been a lake in the valley floor and you can imagine what it might have looked like. In the centuries that followed, silt from the valley sides would have gradually filled the lake. The same natural process continues throughout the Lake District so maybe one day in thousands of year’s time other lakes will disappear in the same way. As you approach the head of the valley the path turns left and climbs steeply to the ridge. Don’t be put off: it’s only a short climb.

3 From the top of the ridge you can see Far Easedale and the route that you will be following later. Turn right onto the joining path and ascend over Pike of Carrs to Calf Crag, the highest point of the walk.

4 Follow the path down from Calf Crag around the head of Far Easedale to pass 100 yards to the left of our first tarn, Brownrigg Moss. 300 yards further, on meeting a bridleway, turn left and follow it down the right side of the valley. Pause to admire the waterfalls and pools on the way but be careful – there are some dangerous cliff edges.

5 Shortly before the path crosses the footbridge at Stythwaite steps, turn right onto the path up to Easedale Tarn. Some people might be tempted to continue down the valley at this point but it’s worth the effort to tackle the half mile ascent, even though it’s boggy in places. Cross the stepping stones by the tarn to the top of the mound ahead and enjoy the solitude created by the fells around you. Easedale Tarn has been a popular destination for visitors from Grasmere since the days when wealthy Victorians regarded it as an adventurous expedition to be guided here on ponies. It would certainly have been an adventure for ladies wearing long skirts and riding side-saddle! A small stone building once stood by the lake. It was used initially shelter the ponies and later became a tea room. The enterprising owner, ‘Swanny’ (from the Swan hotel) Wilson charged a shilling for a bottle of mineral water (at that time 20 shillings a week would have been a good wage). He also hired a boat on the tarn for a shilling an hour or five shillings per day. By the 1960s vandals had wrecked the building. National Park voluntary wardens used the stones to build a cairn and windbreak.

6 Descend by following the bridleway on the right hand side of Sourmilk Gill. If you look carefully at the Ordnance Survey map you’ll see that bridleway goes no further than the tarn so the four mile return trip from Grasmere must have been the full extent of the Victorian expeditions. Sourmilk refers not to Mr Wilson’s drinks but to the white foam as the water tumbles over the numerous rocky falls. Dorothy Wordsworth called it Churnmilk Force (after all, fresh milk is just as white as sour milk). When you reach the flat Easedale valley, the stream has spent its energy, joined Easedale Gill and become Easedale Beck.

7 Turn right on Easedale Road and follow it over the beck at Goody Bridge. Use the footpath to the right of the highway but rejoin the road when you pass the white houses on the other side. Turn left onto the footpath after the houses at the edge of the wood. As you pass through the woods, Easedale Beck joins the River Rothay on your left. When you meet the B5287 road out of Grasmere turn left across the bridge, bear left onto Pye Lane, left along the pavement by the busy A591 and back to the start.

NB: Restrictions on space mean that this article provides a general summary of the route. It is advisable for anyone who plans to follow the walk to take a copy of the relevant Ordnance Survey map.