Ramble around Rydal (From The Westmorland Gazette)

Ramble around Rydal

10:30am Monday 6th July 2009 in

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THIS is a pleasing walk to places that you may have visited before but which have changed, been renewed or possibly have been forgotten over the years. The church, the hall, the waterfalls and the stepping stones are all stunning in their own way. Read the walk through before you set out and decide whether you can face a part, or full return, along the A591 – I’m sure Wordsworth is still turning in his grave over such a busy road cutting through ‘his’ lovely valley.

Rydal Hall was the home of the Le Flemmings who originally lived at Coniston Hall. The hall is a 17th Century building with a rather austere Early Victorian south-front. Today it is owned by the Carlisle Diocese of the Church of England and is used as a conference centre and study centre. There is a good café above the hall, well signposted at the east end of the building. Access to the gardens is free.

Dorothy Wordsworth was painted beside The Steps and the house opposite the stepping stones is where Gordon Wordsworth, the poet’s grandson lived.

Park to the east side of Rydal Church, grid ref 365062, where you are welcome to park and are asked for a small contribution. This is reached up a lane, northwards off the A591.

1 Visit the church first, which is built on a site chosen by William Wordsworth. Sit on a seat in front of the pulpit where the poet used to sit. From here the view of the window, above the altar, is magnificent. As you leave, go ahead to look at Dora’ s Field, given by Wordsworth to his daughter and which, in spring, is a mass of daffodils. Return through the churchyard, beautifully cared for and with many trees and flowers. Then continue to the lane and turn left.

2 Climb steadily uphill, keeping to the left side, passing some pretty houses until you reach Rydal Mount. This was the poet’s home for 37 years and where devotees of his work believe he wrote his best poems. There is an entrance fee to view the house but you can, if you wish, just enter the café, where they serve good coffee.

3 Cross the road to come beside the high wall of Rydal Hall and walk on uphill beside it. Follow the wall ahead and on along a concrete access track, which you leave as it climbs, left, towards a house. Go ahead for a few steps until you reach a farm gate across the track. On the gate is an arrow directing you, right, through a small gate. Beyond, follow the path as it winds left through conifers to reach another gate. Go through and continue on the path and then railed steps down to a high level bridge over the Rydal Beck. Pause on the bridge for a superb view of the lower falls. Go on up more railed steps and then wind left to walk the railed way through tall trees with the beck hurrying well below you through its narrow gorge, on your left.

4 The path continues uphill, now not railed, with more falls, cascades and water slides. Finally, you can see where Rydal Beck after tumbling down its rocky bed over the open fell, comes to top of its gorge. It then rages under a huge block of rock that lies athwart it, and descends in a long single fall into a deep plunge pool. Return the same way and descend the concrete access track. Go on down to take the second left turn, into Rydal Hall. Keep to the right of two tracks to enter the gardens in front of the hall. These have been recently refurbished and are joy to visit.

5 Walk along the terrace and descend steps on the right. There are seats here to enjoy the fountain and the fine flower borders and the parterre. Then leave this lovely garden by a wrought iron gate, opposite the centre of the hall. Go down steps, cross the track and take a small gate, just a few steps left. Follow the path into a small woodland and wind around a pond and continue on to pass through a tunnel under the track you have just crossed. Go on into a charming little building. The walls are beautifully lined and ahead through a large window is a spectacular view of more falls on Rydal Beck. This is a delightful corner where you will want to pause. Above the falls is an arched stone bridge completing a wonderful vista.

6 Wind back through the tunnel and along the path to take a gate on to the track once more. Turn right to stroll through Rydal Park for nearly a mile, with wide views over the valley. Here you may wish to return along the same track. This walk continues through a small gate to the left of the ornate gates on to the road, the noisy A591. Cross and walk right for just over one and a quarter miles, preferably in single file as the traffic come very close to kerb. The only good thing about this part of the walk is a splendid view of part of the Fairfield Horseshoe. Carry on past the turning for Ambleside cricket club and, just beyond a small wood, take a signposted stile into a meadow.

7 Again you need to make a decision here. The way lies ahead, steadily half right, to come to The Steps, stepping stones over the River Rydal. The stones are close and narrow and only two tilt a little. After rain the river can cover the stones and there is no other way to cross to join the narrow road, where you turn right to walk to go over Pelter Bridge. Then turn left to return to the church. If at the stile, after a wet spell of weather, you think the stones will be too difficult to cross, continue on using the pavements into Rydal and turn right up the lane to rejoin your vehicle.

Information Distance: 4 miles Time: 2-3 hours Map: OS Explorer OL 7 NB Children should be under close control when visiting Rydal Falls NB: Restrictions on space mean that this article provides a general summary of the route. It is advisable for anyone who plans to follow the walk to take a copy of the relevant Ordnance Survey map.