A coastal stroll in search of a forgotten port (From The Westmorland Gazette)

A coastal stroll in search of a forgotten port

9:20am Saturday 23rd January 2010

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THE end of 2009 was anything but mild and walking in the snow was not easy. This is why I decided to enjoy a touch of a winter wonderland on a walk to Sunderland Point, which I normally do in summer. It did not disappoint me.

How to get to Sunderland Point: From Kendal follow the A6 towards Lancaster. At the city roundabout, follow the A683 signed to Heysham and Morecambe. After two and a half miles follow signs indicating left to Overton. In Overton, there is limited parking at the church of St Helen, reached by turning left off the Main Street. There is a free car park opposite the Globe Hotel, which is the last building before the Tidal Causeway leads out to Sunderland Point.

Depending upon your energy levels you have two options. One starts and returns to Overton allowing time to explore the bird life from the Causeway. This is six miles long. Or you may prefer to drive over the Causeway (keeping your eye on the tide times) and enjoy a two-mile circular walk around Sunderland Point where there is some parking on the shore near a toilet block.

Map Ref: OS Landranger No 97 Kendal and Morecambe Grid Ref: 431 582 Refreshments: None in Sunderland Point, but good hostelries in Overton especially the Globe, which was built in the 1600s (telephone 01524-85822). Do remember to check opening times in this stringent period.

Note: I was lucky to have a fine winters day and opted for the longer option.

1 From Overton Church walk back towards the village and find a footpath signed and in just over a mile turn right along the Lune Estuary to the Globe.

The parish church of St Helen dates back to Saxon times (the West Wall is without doubt Saxon but its most impressive feature is a very early Anglo-Norman doorway dated to around AD 1050).

2 As the Globe comes into view bear left onto the Causeway to Sunderland. Follow the metalled Causeway (do watch the tide), which abound with birds feeding on the mud flats exposed by the ebbing tide.

3 Turn left at the toilet block and halfway through the hamlet turn sharp right at a sign indicating West Shore and Carr Lane.

4 The sandy track climbs gently to the Sunderland Point Mission Church on the left. This must have been very busy saving souls when the Port of Sunderland was second only to Bristol on the West Coast and in 1750 was much more important than the Port of Liverpool. The place declined after about 1820 and is now pretty well trapped in a fascinating time warp.

5 Continue along a narrow tree-lined lane to reach a metal gate. Turn left here and follow the well-worn footpath. Look out for a seat on the left. Beyond this is a set of stone steps leading to Sambo’s grave. This is surely one of the most beautiful resting places in the world.

In 1801, no less than 76 ships each of more than 160 tons were trading out of Sunderland. They were sometimes moored four or five deep across the Estuary of the Lune and were trading in rum, tobacco, sugar and timber - mainly mahogany; sadly slaves were also traded.

One of these slaves - Sambo - died at Sunderland in 1735 but was not allowed to be buried in sacred ground. This was obviously a disgrace but Sambo got the best deal in my opinion. If you have to rest in peace it might as well be in a spot as peaceful at this!

From the grave follow the shoreline to another unlocked metal gate. Enjoy the views on the opposite side of the Estuary towards Glasson Dock and the Abbey Chapter House. The latter is the only building left of Cockersand Abbey, which was dissolved on the orders of Henry VIII in the late 1530s.

Look on the left to see one of the most impressive houses in Lancashire. It was built in the style of a colonial house, typical of those in the West Indies and the Southern States of America around 1750.

6 Return along the obvious footpath along the second terrace and look out to the right to see where the old sailing ships were berthed. Return to the toilet block and then right along the Causeway to return to the Globe and the church.

NB: Restrictions on space mean that this article provides a general summary of the route. It is advisable for anyone who plans to follow the walk to take a copy of the relevant Ordnance Survey map.

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