Stroll on the old railway tracks around Ravenstonedale and Smardale Gill viaduct (From The Westmorland Gazette)

Stroll on the old railway tracks around Ravenstonedale and Smardale Gill viaduct

8:50am Saturday 2nd October 2010 in Walks By Ron Freethy

IN A RECENT article I provided a list of walks along the many now disused railway tracks in Cumbria. This week I explored the line which once brought coke from the Durham Coalfields to fuel the iron ore furnaces in the Furness district. The Smardale Gill Viaduct is a reminder of this time and now forms part of the excellent nature trail now well looked after by the Cumbria Naturalists’ Trust.

How to get there: from Kirkby Stephen follow the A685 in a south westerly direction to reach St Oswald’s Church where there is parking.

Information:

Distance: 4 miles

Time: Allow 2-3 hours because parts of the route is steep but mainly because there is much to see.

Map: OS - Ol9 Grid reference 725035

Route 1 At the start or end of this walk take the time to explore the church dedicated to St Oswald. There may have been a Saxon church on this site but the present building only dates to the mid 18th Century. If the church is open look out for the massive three decker pulpit. Also some time should be spent in the churchyard which is full of spring and summer flowers but is still colourful well into autumn. From the school ascend the road and take first one and then another left turn on to Hobers Lane with the route signed to Garshill. Continue to follow this track and go over a stile and then cross a bridge over a stream. Follow a sign, over a walk stile and cross over the A685 to another stile on the opposite side of the road.

2 Continue ahead with conifer plantations firstly on the left and then on the right. In this area are some fascinating geographical features which some have suggested are Neolithic in origin. This is not correct because all of these were produced by human hand. There are lots of limestone quarries and also what have been called Giant’s Graves or Pillow Mounds. Actually these were artificial rabbit warrens taking us back to Norman times. The rabbit was introduced to Britain in the 12th Century and both their fur and the flesh were sought after and very expensive. The rabbit were kept in secret areas and run by a servant called the ‘warrener.’ This accounts for the surname which is still common in Britain to this day. Pass over a couple of obvious stiles and follow the line of a wall to a gate. Go through this and the route then veers left and approaches Scandal Beck which is spanned by Smardale Bridge. Do not cross this but bear sharp right.

3 Here are more Giant’s Graves and old quarries and is still the place to see rabbits. From a rare and protected mammal Brer Rabbits are now so common that they have long been regarded as a pet.

4 Continue to reach Smardale Gill Viaduct. Long before the railway came this areas was a track used by Scottish drovers bringing their cattle to markets in England. They even had their own inn, which was known as the Scottish Ale House. At the time of the 1715 and 1745 rebellions plotters supporting the Stuarts against the Hanoverians met at the ale house. At the viaduct turn left and follow the old railway. This is the place to combine a study of industrial history and wildlife typical of a limestone habitat. For many centuries limestone has been a vital commodity, which is still the case to this day. All our motorways and buildings need cement and at one time limestone was an essential fertiliser for farmers fields. Limestone also supports its own individual plants and according to the season these areas are the place to see flowers such as orchids, rock rose, wild strawberry and birds-eye primrose. The Wildlife Trust has done an excellent job in presenting this habitat and all visitors should be aware that some areas cannot be visited except by special permit. Nobody should object to keeping to the marked path or keeping their dogs on leads. Pass the railway cottage on the right and then bear left away from the old line.

5 At Smardale Bridge beat left and then right passing yet more old quarries and warrens (giant graves). Do not cross the bridge but keep Scandal Beck on the left. Pass through a plantation and negotiate stiles to approach the A685 and return to the starting point between the school and church.

NB: Restrictions on space mean that this article provides a general summary of the route. It is advisable for anyone who plans to follow the walk to take a copy of the relevant Ordnance Survey map.