You may have heard the words 'over-developed', 'packed with tourists' and 'crowded beaches' used to describe modern Thailand. So had I. These phrases are enough to put any traveller or tourist off visiting the country and, if it was not for the fact it was nestled neatly into our journey, I would have missed Thailand out altogether. But this would have been a terrible mistake, because now I've experience the silk-coated country it has been promoted to one of my favourite places.

We commenced our Thailand adventure in Khoa Sok, a huge national park with kayaking, lake trips, flower spotting and waterfalls all on its doorstep. Making up this adrenaline-filled activities park is a collection of log-designed guest houses, restaurants and bars. They were finely decked out, from the colourful flowers peppered around walls, pillars and tables, to the impressive tapestry stretching down from ceilings and spreading across floors.

Sam and I had intended to hire some boats and go kayaking, but we were told the water was too low so we had to settle for a trek. Having conquered the jungle in Malaysia, we decided to go it alone again, although this time it was a lot easier, with well established paths, lots of tourists dotted around the route and information stands sprinkled at different viewpoints. Following a two-hour stroll among tall trees, bendy paths and few little hills we made it to a discreet waterfall where we cooled down for a few hours, sporting a technique that was a mixture of doggy paddle and treading water. While sitting in the clear water, I felt a sharp pinch on my foot. I was reassured by my caring husband that the water was still safe to swim in, despite my instinct being to get out. So we carried on swimming until a few minutes later when he felt a similar pinch and ran out the water. We concluded it must have been an aggressive crab marking out its territory. At night this resort transforms into a Rastafarian haven, with reggae music booming out from tree-top bars and from behind the numerous bonfires. Most of the Thai waiters there had grown dreadlocks and there was always a distant smell of the Sweet Mary Jane in the evenings.

In our wood lodge cabin, which boasted crisp bed sheets and golden curtains, I found a scorpion strolling across our white-titled bathroom floor. It wobbled straight past my foot and meant I couldn't return to our toilet until morning, when Sam checked out  the room to confirm its exit. The next day we took an eight- hour coach journey to Chumphon on the east coast. We had hoped to get a ferry from here to Ko Tao, but we didn't realise there were only two a day leaving at either 1pm or 11pm. We arrived at 2pm so we had a long wait. This turned out to be no bad thing as the city was filled with Thai street markets and very well priced clothes shops. The fashion in Thailand is very quirky, with boutique styled shops filled with clothes that oozed with originality.

On our ferry to Ko Tao we expected to be sleeping under the stars on the boat’s deck, but apparently there were two night ferries, one with beds and one without and we boarded the former. The trip across the gulf of Thailand was brilliant. We spent a good portion of it in the midst of the squid fishermen's leaf- green lights. These boats looked similar to the bright lights of a city if viewed from afar, only instead of the orange glows there was a deep green shine. With the rhythmic flowing of the waves and the blaze of colour in the background Sam and I sat back and drank a few pre-brought Chang beers (50p) before retiring to our boat dormitory beds. At 5am we landed in Koa Toa, the cheapest place in the world for scuba diving. The island itself it a lot bigger than the ones we visited in Malaysia, filled with party seekers and deserted beach searchers alike. Depending on which side you stay on the place can cater for both. We met up with our Swiss friends again and managed to uncover a traveller’s paradise in the form of a cheap penthouse with the best sea views I've ever imagined, deep sea snorkelling, home-cooked Thai food and a free taxi service to the party-side of the resort. This heaven was run by Clive, an over 60-year-old Cockney with six wives, 23 children and counting, and an excellent eye for business. His cheeky persona was an added bonus to the hotel but with a pot belly and yellow teeth I did feel sorry for his six young beautiful wives who he said he was still ‘actively’ involved with.

This wheeler and dealer whisked tourists straight off the ferry to his out-of-this world accommodation. At 5am in the morning though, our guard was up and we declined Clive's offer of a room. It wasn’t until we had spent a good six hours walking around in the day’s heat and getting quotes for rooms that we decided his £12 pound a night for a huge penthouse with a kitchen, four poster bed and beautiful surroundings was a deal we shouldn't refuse again. We didn't have time to scuba dive as we were on a tight schedule to get to Cambodia but we did fit in some intense snorkelling during which I spotted chequered  fish, stripy fish, clown fish and lots more. Although the main beach, Sairee, was jam-packed full of tourists and fitted into all the negative stereotypes of what Thailand had become, I still loved it. You could forgive it being so developed because the island achieved it in with such style. Most eateries stuck to what makes the country unique, decking their interior out with swanky tables, beautiful plants and lots more but integrating this with a few western luxuries. Also, a stone throw from every over-developed area seemed to be a secluded haven, making it possible to indulge in the best of both worlds.

Another major attraction was the food. It was consistently outstanding - making it a foodie's must. I was pushed on deciding which I preferred Indian or Thai cuisine? The flavours in their curries, with the mixture of coconut and ginger, were mouth- watering but India did cater for vegetarians a lot more. We departed from our second utopia a lot earlier than we would have liked, but we had a deadline to meet so we booked a 13-hour sleeper to Bangkok. Although only had chairs, I still managed to sleep for the majority of the trip. However I did weak up covered in mosquito bites. In Bangkok we showered in the main station. There was a bit of a fight to secure a cubicle, it seems queuing was not the norm and after a herd of people slipped their way in front of me I ended up running ahead of an old lady who was about to do the same thing. I decided it was either that or not wash. Sam said he had no problem in the male section. After a little walk round Bangkok, which was nowhere near as hectic as Mumbai, we hopped on a six-hour trip to the Cambodia border.

Along this route the temperature kept increasing and with sitting on the train for nearly two days straight my feet began to swell. Then that night the strangest thing happened; my little toenail popped off. I'm convinced it's because of my feet swelling but Sam says that's not possible?

I will definitely return to Thailand as one week is nowhere near enough time to explore this beautiful country, which is evidently popular for a good reason.