GO TO Ireland, they said.

It's a fabulous place, full of fun, folklore and friendly folk.

Well, I'd been to Dublin countless times.

And frankly, I was more than a little tired of the "been there, done that, got the shamrock" boasts of travelling friends just determined to notch it up as another destination to bore envious mates with later over a pint in the local.

More to the point, as any wily traveller will know, the capital city is only one small piece of a fascinating mosaic that makes up Ireland's real story.

So, instead of beating a well-worn trail along the rocky road to Dublin city, I opted for a spiritual journey in search of Ireland's most popular export - Saint Patrick.

What attracted me was that when this patron saint of all Irish men and women first set foot on this green and very pleasant land in the 5th century AD, he faced a very uncertain future in a little-known country.

In those days, warring Celts in scattered tribal groups across the island ruled with five very tough provincial kings.

The landscape was, and in some parts still is, dominated by their eerie monuments and ancient ruins dotted across the landscape.

Even the Roman conquerors of Britain had only made a few, limp-wristed sorties.

Set against this unforgiving background, St Patrick's phenomenal success as a Christian missionary seems all the more incredible.

Particularly when, by the end of the 5th century, Ireland had become a Christian nation.

No wonder his feast day, March 17 each year, is celebrated in such grand style, in countries ranging from Argentina to the Caribbean island of Montserrat!

But, as I was to discover, fact, myth and legend all make a heady mix on my journey around the country in his saintly footsteps.

But was he real? Most definitely, say historians and the Irish Tourist Board, because there is a written document, his Confession, and tangible evidence of his authenticity.

However, he wasn't actually born in Ireland, but in mainland Britain of Roman parentage, although the exact location is still shrouded in mystery.

At 16, he was captured in a raid, sold into slavery in Ulster and then escaped back to Britain, only to return as a

missionary, via France, after becoming a bishop.

And here's an interesting fact - to this day, hawthorn blooms in the winter in the Loire Valley where St Patrick has two feast days - one on March 17, the other Christmas Day.

But wherever you visit in Ireland today, as I discovered, there is always a party raging on that visitors are more than welcome to join.

You'll be caught up in all the foot-tapping magic of traditional music festivals with fiddle, penny whistles and wild voices that will capture your heartstrings.

Foodies can tuck in their napkins and sample the Atlantic's finest at the world famous Galway International Oyster Festival in, September.

Theatre and film buffs should visit in October when Dublin showcases the

new productions of Ireland's foremost theatre companies and international artists.

Across the country, Cork weighs in with the country's foremost film event featuring a programme of international cinemas alongside new Irish work.

You will also be able to lock into the Cork Jazz Festival, in October, which features artists from around the world.

And, of course, you could actually holiday in Ireland when it celebrates St Patrick's Day.

The Irish Tourist Board says that bookings at hotels across the country are already pouring in...

so don't delay.

For brochures and tour operators, write to: Irish Tourist Board, 150 New Bond Street London W1Y OAQ.

Or call the visitors' inquiry line: 020-7493-3201.