"WE NEVER ever use a threat; we don't work like that," said Albert Hampson, business manager for AA Hotel Services, and the man responsible for investigating Bay Horse claims about untoward pressure from inspectors.

"What probably happened was that the hotel inspector concerned had a long discussion and explained all the advantages that would be gained and perhaps did persuade the gentleman that it would be a good idea to be in the guide on the back of what they were already doing as regards the restaurant rosette standard."

Mr Hampson confirmed that the AA had upped requirements for its rosettes.

"It is true to say that over the last 12 to 18 months we have tightened up our requirements.

At the same time food standards have increased over the whole country.

Does everything stand still?"

Mr Hampson said the AA should not be pilloried because it had set higher standards for rosette accreditation.

"It is a dynamic scheme," he added.

"But I don't think this is about whether the place should stay in the hotel scheme or not.

I think this is being used as part of the problem."

The main issue, argued Mr Hampson, was whether or not the establishment was "worthy".

"I think this is hurting him the most and causing him to be upset with the AA."

Apparently, Michel Roux took his reduction from five rosettes to four in "more sanguine" fashion.

"We are cognisant of how this affects people's businesses.

We very much try to tread a path between two things - good information for the consumer which is credible and working with the industry to raise standards.

It is not easy."