The turning to The Grange Hotel is almost hidden, opposite Grange-over-Sands' railway station, then there's a short steep drive up to the hotel.

The night we called for a meal, there was a wedding reception, making parking difficult.

However, we managed to abandon our vehicle and walk up to the imposing hotel.

We were greeted by a raucous party in the lobby, the wedding overspill, so we hurried off into the hotel restaurant, Carriages.

Once seated, we hardly noticed next door's celebrations.

Carriages has been recently refurbished and looks beautiful - light colours, high ceilings, huge urns of flowers and impressive views across Morecambe Bay.

The menu is five set courses with ample choice.

The wine list is impressive.

After making our selection, we were offered an unexpected appetiser - salmon terrine.

Just a little mouthful, but the perfect beginning.

Mrs Gout started with avocado and basil mousse with char-grilled asparagus and chilled gazpacho coulis.

The creamy mousse was given a welcome texture by the crisp asparagus and a fiery after-bite provided by the gazpacho.

My starter was poached comice pear with prosciutto ham, fresh figs and a lemon and tarragon dressing - a lovely subtle combination of sweet and savoury.

I followed with the chef's crme of tomato and chive soup which was gloriously thick and flavoursome.

Mrs G couldn't resist the temptation of the mango sorbet which she saw not as a delicate palate cleanser, but as an extra pudding - served early!

My wife's main course was a supreme of corn-fed chicken with wild and field mushrooms, pancetta and a white wine beurre blanc.

The sauce was rich in mushroom flavours and the large piece of chicken very succulent.

I was spoilt for choice and eventually elected to pass on the venison and try the roast sirloin of beef with traditional Yorkshire pudding and red wine jus.

There was plenty of tender beef but I was disappointed by the Yorkshire pud.

Perhaps unfairly, I always compare Yorkshire puddings to those I had prepared for me as a child - large sheets cooked beneath the dripping beef joint, not individual ones.

(Even Mrs G's puds come under the same spotlight but I never tell her this.)

Our desserts were fabulous.

Mrs Gout had lemon and lime parfait with red berry coulis and orange tuille biscuit.

The parfait was refreshingly tangy and sharp.

I was pleased to see the cheeses on offer listed in the menu.

Although I'm usually a complete sucker for cheeseboards (especially ones with local products), I spied another diner' s huge plate of cheese and crackers and decided to pass.

Instead I had the black cherries in Drambuie on a sweet pastry tart with brown bread ice cream.

The ice cream had a breadcrumb texture and actually tasted of brown loaf.

A quite unusual yet tasty experience.

This was a truly memorable night; a beautiful setting, impeccable and cheerful service, excellent cuisine and good value for money.

And although the odd note of S Club 7 and Brown Girl in the Ring occasionally drifted through from next door, it did little to spoil our enjoyment.

Recommended.

Mr & Mrs Gout